Brackets:

Mounting Brackets
-72/74 AC Bracket
-74/74 Upper PS Bracket
-72 Lower PS Bracket/Tensioner
-72 Motor Mount Bracket
-74 Alt Bracket


Full Gasket Kit (6g74)
Oil Pump
Water Pump

MLS HEAD Gaskets.
Crank Bearings (custom)
2mm Pin downset Pistons (94mm) 9.0 C.R
pins (.220')
pin circlips
Rays Rods
part PN MN143754 is the stock 6G75 Montero balancer


take heads off, take pistons+rods+bearings to engine shop to bore out to 95mm/install/balance.


PROs and CONs of swapping to 6G74:
PROS

   1. Heigher deck height means it can be stroked to over 4.1L
   2. More cubic inches means more low end torque
   3. More cubic inches means that less boost is required to get same power level as 6G72, more power on pump gas!
   4. If you try to you can make the engine look stock to anyone but a expert on 3000GT and Stealths.
   5. a 4.0L twin turbo engine is basically a 2.0L engine for each turbo. There are a huge amount of DSM turbo optimized
      for a 2.0L engine. More options are always good. 


CONS

   1. Engine swaps are not emissions legal, although it would be easy to hide to most people
   2. Bigger stoke means higher pistons accelleration which could limit RPMS
   3. Wider engine means many accessories don't fit w/o modification, like alternator and P/S pump.
   4. Higher engine means there is no room for strut tower bar, and engine may hit some hoods
   5. Heavier engine and more weight on front will mess up the cars cornering balance
   6. With stock pistons higher compressions raio (10:1 vs. 8:1) means that lower boost will be needed to prevent detonation
   7. 6G74 Block does not have oil squiters to cool pistons so lower boost may be needed to prevent detonation 




---Quote (Originally by Import Power)--- I always used one whole can of Hylomar on a pair of copper gaskets without issue. 

Getting the SS wire out is a bitch. Using a fine punch normally works. Once you can get one end to buckle you can fit a pick under the buckled area and pull it out.

I always butt ended the wire, never 45 degreed it. But I spent a lot of time fine filing the wire little by little so that when done the seam was so tight you had to really look for it to find it. 

The wire ends should never end at a jacket, coolant or oil, and they should not face each other. 

For copper to seal you also need to run the fresh build to operating temperature dry, no coolant. Let cool 12-24 hours. Retorque head bolts and you will find some lose ones. Then add coolant. Never add the coolant before the first heat cycle and retorque.

I now have had even better luck with the copper oringing and OEM MLS gaskets.
You can use the same oring channel and just install copper wire, the same diam wire you are using in ss is available at mcmaster in dead soft copper. That is what I would recommend.

-Chris
---End Quote---
That is how i used to do it and never had a problem. When i got into dsm's i picked up some info from some of the dsm guy's that seem to work fine. Another thing with an o ringed block is running a composite gasket with steel fire rings. The o rings keep cylinder gasses where they belong and the composite gasket stops the seepage problems with copper, and some mls gaskets. Of course you still need a1's or l19's. I've run some 4g63's at almost 40 psi of boost, and 60 lb's/min of airflow with no issues, with this setup.